I remember in the years after Maggy went to college, whenever Mom would travel, Dad and I would slink off to the grocery store and stock up on canned soup. We were like squirrels stashing acorns for the winter, or maybe more like teenagers amassing beer when their parents were out of town.

We’d pick up our old standbys: chicken noodle, tomato, clam chowder, maybe a minestrone, or a beef barley, but then we’d stand there like a couple of connoisseurs and debate the “wild card” cans—Creamy corn chowder with smoked andouille sausage? Hearty bean and ham? Ooooh, is that tortellini?

Sure, there is something slightly off in the viscosity of the broth, and the chicken cubes are an awkward texture, but the whole process—can to bowl—is literally effortless. You don’t even have to crank the can opener anymore. And in the big, bad world of fast meals, there are definitely worse things you can eat. (Pop-Tarts? Kraft Mac N’ Cheese? And let’s not even start on the “Manwich.”)

I think it’s undeniable that there is something restorative about soup—whether it’s lovingly simmered with picked-over chicken carcasses and organic vegetables, or churned out in a factory full of xanthan gum and mofidied food starch. Either way, it’s warm, easy on the stomach, and imbued with healing memories of sick-bed meals administered by attentive loved ones.

Of course, I’d take a deep, piping bowl Mom’s chicken noodle (extra noodles, please!) over a microwaved mug of Campbell’s any day. But when you’re nauseous, headachy, or just plain hungry, pretty much anything in broth will do the trick.

I’ve got nothing against cans. In fact I adore all varieties of beans, tomatoes, milk, and broth, as well as tuna, clams, olives, pumpkin, and hominy.

I’m pretty good at gussying up mediocre foods to improve flavor and texture, but there’s no way to disguise the soft pasta, mushy vegetables, and artificial flavors of canned soup. If I had to pick one, however, tomato would be it.

I’m including my homemade tomato soup recipe. As you can see, it doesn’t take long to make and if you don’t have time, skip the pureeing step and enjoy it chunky. Note that it calls for three of my favorite canned goods—tomatoes, chicken broth, and evaporated milk.

But I think you’re wise to keep a can or two of tomato soup on hand for those desperate, dark, depressing days we all have now and again.

Creamy Tomato Soup with Italian Flavors
Makes 10 cups serving 8 to 10

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons Italian seasonings
2 cans (28 ounces each) crushed tomatoes
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups chicken broth
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
Salt and ground black pepper

Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high. Add onion; sauté until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in Italian seasonings; cook until fragrant, less than a minute. Add tomatoes and baking soda, then chicken broth; bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and simmer, partially covered, to blend flavors, about 10 minutes.

Working in batches, pour soup into a blender; puree, making sure to vent blender by removing pop-out center, and draping a kitchen towel over the top, until creamy smooth, 30 seconds to a minute. Return soup to pot, stir in milk, and heat to simmer, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. (Can be refrigerated up to 3 days; return to simmer) Ladle into bowls and serve.