Makes 2 dozen

If you like, sprinkle the tops of the rolls, as they do at Bolete, with a pinch of sea salt.

1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
1/3 cup warm water
1/3 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 large egg, beaten, plus an extra egg for egg wash
2 tablespoons butter, melted
4 cups bread flour
2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons picked fresh thyme leaves

Dissolve yeast in warm water in a 2-cup liquid measuring cup until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add milk, cream, egg, and butter; set aside.

Meanwhile, pulse flour salt, sugar, and thyme in a food processor. Add wet ingredients and process, adding a tablespoon or so of flour if mixture is excessively wet and sticky or a tablespoon or so of water if dough feels hard and dry.  Continue to process until dough is smooth and elastic, about 30 seconds longer.

Turn dough onto a lightly floured work surface, knead into a smooth satiny ball, and place into a large bowl coated with vegetable oil spray Place in a warm place until dough doubles, 1 1/2 to 3 hours, depending on room temperature .

Without punching dough down turn onto a flour-coated work surface, dividing it into 2 dozen equal pieces. Working one at a time, roll each piece of dough into a smooth round. Place on a large (12- by 18-inch) cornmeal-coated rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining balls of dough.

Cover shapes with a barely damp, lightweight kitchen towel and let rise until almost doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on room temperature.

Fifteen minutes before baking rolls, adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Brush rolls with remaining beaten egg. Bake until rolls are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer rolls to a wire rack and serve warm.  (Can be wrapped in plastic wrap, placed in a zipper-lock bag and frozen up to 1 month. Warm in 300-degree oven for 5 to 10 minutes.)