When Professor Mark Hixon of Oregon State University passed Maggy and me on an early morning hike at Rancho La Puerta and asked if we were coming to his four-part lecture, “Amazing Oceans of Life,” I hesitated. With so much horribly wrong with the food chain on land, I wasn’t sure I was ready to take on the ocean too. Wouldn’t it be a lot more fun to head to the lounge and watch It’s Complicated?
“Yes, I’ll come,” I replied, “but I know it’s going to be depressing.” He assured us it wouldn’t be and delivered on his promise… at least the first night when he showed slide after slide of wondrous sea creatures and their habitats. I checked the brochure. He offered two more presentations and then his final talk: “Humans and the Sea: Threats and Solutions.” It was too late. I was hooked. I had to go. As Mark shared facts and statistics throughout the week, I realized there’s no happy ending to this ocean story—at least for the moment. He points to three problems: ocean warming, ocean acidification, and over-fishing (especially by bottom trawling).
As the atmosphere warms so goes the ocean. This is why the north polar ice cap is melting, sea levels are rising, and equatorial sea life is swimming towards relatively cooler waters at the poles. All of this is wreaking havoc on the ocean’s ecosystems.
Ocean acidification—why not just sprinkle in a little baking soda or toss in few Tums? Not so simple. Carbon emissions (from those darn fossil fuels) mingle with seawater producing carbonic acid that stymies coral from building their skeletons and shellfish from forming their shells—a serious blow to the ocean’s habitats and food chain.
And finally there’s over-fishing, especially in the form of bottom trawling. I had no idea how many nets (some large enough to capture a 747) are being dragged every day across the ocean floor. They make their catch all right, but in the process their fishing gear can destroy the seafloor and capture way more sea life than was targeted, most of which is simply tossed overboard. Of course, there’s plenty to despair about. It’s like going to the doctor and finding out you’ve got curable cancer. It’s a serious disease, but if you follow doctor’s orders and work at changing your life, there’s hope.
I’m going to leave carbon emissions legislation to another passionate person, but as a cook, I can start following a simple pamphlet from the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch when I’m shopping for fish or seafood. This pamphlet details “Best” and “Good Alternatives.” Eventually I’ll internalize these categories. Until then, I will carry a guide in my purse and start asking questions before I buy or order fish or seafood. If the vendor cannot definitively tell me where a fish is from and how it was caught, I will not buy it. That’s my pledge, Dr. Mark.
For your own copy, specific to your area of the country, head to: http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/cr_seafoodwatch/download.aspx
Illustration by Joe Shoulak
Mike V @ DadCooksDinner says
I’ll throw out another recommendation on seafood and sustainability.
Paul Greenberg’s book, Four Fish, is a fascinating take on this complex subject.
JenniferA says
I’ve been carrying that guide in my purse for a little while now too and it has been great. There really are plenty of delicious fish on the best choice list!
Maggy says
I was at this talk too and it honestly changed the way that I see my life and my future. It frightened me. Which is probably a good thing. But it looks like the ocean as we know it might not exist in as little as 15-20 years. I think Dr. Mark’s talk was a good mix of fear and hope. As a result, I haven’t wanted to eat seafood for a while, but the other day I bought two cans of line-caught, sustainably sourced tuna for $5 a piece. I didn’t think twice about it. As with meat, either I’m buying ethical or I’m not buying at all. I want my children to enjoy the ocean and that’s not going to happen unless we all take serious action quickly. We printed off our Seafood Watch card and will be using it. I hope you do too.
Charla says
Our nicest, family-run grocery store in town and local food co-op pre-label all their fish they sell according to the Seafood Watch card.
Pam Jett says
Pam:
I’m so glad to see your column and recipes in USA Weekend. These recipes all sound great but I am forced to watch nutritional values due to my husband’s recent heart attack. Could you possibly include those values in upcoming recipes?
Thanks for considering.
Another Pam
Pam says
Hey Pam,
Usually USA Weekend does include the nutritional information on my recipes. I’ll check with them and find out why it didn’t happen this time. Sometimes it’s on the web, so you may want to check there. In the meantime, there’s a website called fitday.com where you can do the nutritional analysis yourself. Thanks!