As a young cook, among the very first books I purchased were Nathalie Dupree’s—New Southern Cooking, Matters of Taste. She gets full credit for Batter Fruit Cobbler in my first book, The Perfect Recipe. (She’s right, “It’s the best peach dessert there is.”)
I finally met Nathalie in 2002 when she hosted me on her TV show. I was still pretty green then. I don’t remember much about that day except how incredibly gracious and encouraging she was to me.
So when I realized I was teaching on Nathalie’s turf a few weeks back, I wrote to see if she might have time to get together. Turns out Nathalie lives within walking distance of Charleston Cooks where I would be teaching. Not only did she invite me for lunch, she offered me a place to stay. I said yes to lunch and resisted the room. (It’s a game we Southerners play to test the seriousness of the offer). She made a strong case. I accepted.
My friend Terrie and I arrive at Nathalie’s bustling Charleston “single house” at noon. There are two young apprentices—Kelly Skelly and Joseph Dwesk in the kitchen learning to make soufflés, and Nathalie’s assistant, Beth Price, is in the living room working on Nathalie’s upcoming tome—Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking.
Calmly, Nathalie simultaneously supervises all the cook/book activity and manages to graciously host us for lunch. We start with a beautiful pear and pecan salad with lettuce fresh from her garden. Eventually Beth joins us.
Lunch is cheese soufflé—Kelly’s morning project. Nathalie teaches her how to break it open in the center to check for doneness and then scoop a portion for everyone around the crisp outer edge. If it’s runny at the center or deflates, no worries she says—just shove it back in the oven where it will continue to cook and puff. There’s a lot to learn from a master.
Lunch in full swing, Danielle, the culinary director at Charleston Cooks arrives. She’s been invited for lunch too and pulls up a chair as we serve her salad and some of the re-inflated cheese soufflé that has just emerged from the oven.
It’s time for dessert and Joseph brings out his chocolate soufflé, which Nathalie serves with a mound of billowy whipped cream. He returns it to the oven for that second puff and we’re all already excited about our chance at seconds. Now Joseph and Kelly join us at the table where the conversation pings from food to politics (Nathalie ran as a write-in candidate for US Senate in South Carolina’s recent election), current events, and the changing times.
As I took in all the lively conversation, I was aware of how Nathalie had so comfortably shepherded this table from polite lunch to lively salon. It’s clear she’s been at this a lifetime.
The next morning as I stand at the curb waiting to leave, Nathalie pulls in—she’s already been out and has a full day ahead of her. I don’t remember much what we said except how incredibly gracious and encouraging she was… again.
We’ve traveled a lot, seen quite a bit of the world, but still there’s nothing quite like Southern hospitality. Nathalie sounds like quite an incredible woman! Can’t wait to try this cheese souffle – looks divine. Wish she were giving me lessons though 🙂
I always remember watching her show with my sister and that she was never scared to make a mess! I loved her for that.
Pam,
A cook who runs for the senatorial race! Wow, I was thinking, Pam Anderson for congress! You’ve got my vote.
I remember watching Nathalie on television years ago in the kitchen with my grandmother — long before Food Network existed. She and Virginia Willis are true Southern cooking icons.
I met and had a cooking class with Natalie in the late 90’s(seems like a lifetime ago). She taught us how to make cheese grits, they were wonderful!!! How fun! Makes me miss her!!!
I’m dying to make this now that I see that there’s really nothing to fear in making a souffle! But the chocolate souffle sounds really good too!
You know what I remember loving THE MOST about her PBS program — her gorgeous aprons! Loved those prints!
I have wondered about her for a time or two over the past few years. How nice to hear she is doing well.
In my mid 30’s, as I was beginning my “second career”, I had the opportunity to spend 10 days working with Nathalie in Sept. 1997 as one of 3 food prep chefs (along with Virginia Willis, who was on hiatus from her stint with Martha Stewart) for the photo shoots that were done for Nathalie’s “Comfortable Entertaining” cookbook – She is truly one of the kindest, most gracious women that I have ever met. We worked out of the kitchen in her home in Atlanta, at the time. Several months later, after the publication of the book, I was thrilled to receive a signed copy of the book from her and to see my name listed in the acknowledgements of the book for all the work that we had done. It was the perfect way to begin my career in the culinary industry and all these years later, I am proud to say that Nathalie has remained a great mentor and friend to me.